Since my truck is going to be body dropped I needed to remove the strut rods. The way the are mounted to the front they keep the frame from setting flat on the ground. Thankfully, Rohde Fabrication makes a nice kit to remove the strut rods.
Removing the strut rods is pretty simply. You just cut them off the frame.
I know most people wont have the ability to turn the frame upside down but I had the means. For this, click to read more and find out. So, to make my life easier and to get you clear picture I turned the frame upside down and cut off all the mounts that were holding the strut rods in place. The frame can now sit flat.
Need image of control arm
When welding in the control arm brace you need to keep the pivot points perfectly in line with each other. You need to find a metal rod or something that fits snuggly inside the bushings. In my case I happened to have a tire iron laying on the corner of the shop that fit perfectly. I removed the lower control arm bolt and slid the tire iron through the control arm and the new brace. This held everything while I tack welded them together. Once they were tacked together I moved the control arm up and down through full travel while watching for anything to flex or bind. Once happy I welded everything solid with the tire iron keeping them aligned. I did not remove it till everything was complete.
Adding the control arm triangulation also makes it easy to add front shocks. I know people say you don’t need front shocks when your bagged. While it is true the truck will run and drive without front shocks it will drive better with them. A proper suspension needs front shocks.
The lower control arm brace comes with the hole already drilled. You simply need to cut off the brake line mounting tab as it is in the way of the shock tower. After that is removed you can weld the upper shock brace to the frame.
For shocks I went with KYB 343158 they have plenty of travel and compress enough to not hold the truck up. Remember to test fit your shocks before welding the upper mount. I compressed the shock all the way down and measured the height. I then marked where the bottom of the shock mount would be at this point. This is the lowest you can possible mount the shock the tower. I then measure the height with the shock all the way extended and the truck lifted as high as possible. This gives us the highest possible point for the shock mount.
I then set the shock tower about half way between these two points. I don’t like my shocks to sit fully compressed when the truck is laid down. This is hard on the shock and can shorten the shocks life span. Finding a happy balance will make the shock last longer.